“Hacking” BNETA Smart LED Bulbs for MQTT Integration

Teardown of a BNETA Smart LED bulb, flashing of Tasmota firmware and integration into Home Assistant via MQTT – without any soldering.

I recently experimented with a Sonoff B1 LED WiFI bulb. These units are based on the old-faithful Espressif Systems’ ESP8266 WiFi Microcontroller.

Sonoff smart devices tout various features, all accessible through the “EWELink” app and “cloud” infrastructure (it looks super crap). Um, no, if it’s in my house and on my WiFi network it needs to run open source software (or at least be made by a trustworthy company subject to mass scrutiny – even that’s not ideal, but life’s full of trade-offs). Sonoff devices are of particular interest to me because they (1) run a well-known micro-controller that has a lot of community-driven software and support available, (2) they’re SUPER cheap [$1.50] and (3) they’re really versatile. I’m proud to say that although I own and operate more than 20x Sonoff smart devices I’ve never installed their Android app. Life’s too short for that.

I bought one Sonoff B1 R2 to test with… it was a ball-ache to programme it with custom firmware (Tasmota) but it was possible and it works well once flashed.

Flashing a Sonoff B1 R2 is far from great. I just want lights and colours, not soldering.

I recently came across an advert for a WiFi “Smart” LED light at a local mass retailer (ultimately owned by Walmart, known as Makro in South Africa). The LED light was branded by a local company but South African companies rarely produce anything original (sorry guys, we don’t, we should, I really wish we did). The light was on special too and a fair bit cheaper than the Sonoff. This was too tempting. I thought “what are the chances it’s just a rebranded Sonoff device ?”. The device has the same basic specs and power rating as the Sonoff B1. Googling for the device name only yielded the local company’s empty website, but searching for the product’s SKU “IO-WIFI60” revealed a link to a Chinese site.

Makro’s SKU

So yes, screw it, let’s give it a go. R 250 (about $19) later and we have this :

Yeah, I opened it up on the drive home 😀
Unlike the Sonoff, which either pops off or unscrews this light top has been glued on.
The line on my thumb is from voting 😉
I’m very excited at this point because that looks like an ESP8266 dev board WOOOOOHOOOOO
RGB and White LED WiFi Smart light fitting - removal of top PCB.
Screws gone. The white stuff on top feels like silicone, but below it there’s thermal paste. I assume to bond the mostly copper top PCB to the alloy base.
You can see a bit of the thermal paste going on there and what looks like a power supply PCB with the dev board riding on top of it. It’s essentially a DIP8 package. The board can’t be easily separated from the power supply PCB and the PSU PCB appears to be soldered to the base.
Tuya TYLC2V module in WiFi Smart LED Light Fitting with cloud QR code present.
And there’s the ESP8266 😄😄😄 along with what looks like a voltage regulator, clock source, etc. The bit sticking out is the PCB antenna. Once again, below the white board is a power supply PCB which runs down into the E27 fitting. At this point I didn’t know what the label/QR code/code meant.
Tuya TYLC2V module in WiFi Smart LED Light Fitting.
Label removed and ahhhh, a model number.

A quick Google search and…

Tuya Module overview diagram.

The module the MCU is on, as it turns out, is made by a company called Tuya. The label with a QR code on it that I removed is a key for Tuya’s cloud infrastructure. In short Tuya makes ready-to-go ESP8266 modules that are pre-flashed to work with their cloud infrastructure. The idea being that you point your users to a white label app branded with your logos, which configures the device via WiFi. As the manufacturing company (pffft) you buy several thousand pre-flashed/configured WiFi modules from Tuya and integrate them into your product. This is interesting but still problematic as I don’t want their firmware in my house haha. There are no easily-accessible pins to flash this device… maybe someone has hacked the OTA protocol.

More Googling and yes, the Tuya OTA protocol was reverse engineered around 4 months ago. The product of that work has allowed a popular open-source Home Automation project, called Tasmota, to utilise the device, which in-turn allows the device to be used via MQTT with OpenHAB/Home Assistant/Domoticz platforms (and that means these devices can be firewalled off from the internet). It also means their interaction via MQTT can be homogenised into a common format, regardless of manufacturer.

I can feel the excitement GROWING. Bring me the Pi!

Raspberry Pi 3 and TUYA-based Smart WiFi LED Light.
Yes, that Pi will do. Hands ftw.
unzip 2019-04-08-raspbian-stretch-lite.zip
dd if=2019-04-08-raspbian-stretch-lite.img bs=64k of=/dev/sde status=progress
mount /dev/sde1 /mnt/sde
touch /mnt/sde/ssh
umount /mnt/sde
<some time later>
ssh [email protected]
sudo mount -o remount,async,commit=500,discard,noatime,nodiratime /
# ^ It's called living dangerously :D Speeeeeeeeeed
sudo apt update
sudo apt install byobu git
git clone https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert
cd tuya-convert
# You're not going fast enough :<

Go go go!

pi@raspberrypi:~/tuya-convert$ ./start_flash.sh
~/tuya-convert/scripts ~/tuya-convert

TUYA-CONVERT was developed by Michael Steigerwald from the IT security company VTRUST (https://www.vtrust.de/) in collaboration with the techjournalists Merlin Schumacher, Pina Merkert, Andrijan Moecker and Jan Mahn at c't Magazine. (https://www.ct.de/)

TUYA-CONVERT creates a fake update server environment for ESP8266/85 based tuya devices. It enables you to backup your devices firmware and upload an alternative one (e.g. ESPEasy, Tasmota, Espurna) without the need to open the device and solder a serial connection (OTA, Over-the-air).
Please make sure that you understand the consequences of flashing an alternative firmware, since you might lose functionality!

Flashing an alternative firmware can cause unexpected device behavior and/or render the device unusable. Be aware that you do use this software at YOUR OWN RISK! Please acknowledge that VTRUST and c't Magazine (or Heise Medien GmbH & Co. KG) CAN NOT be held accountable for ANY DAMAGE or LOSS OF FUNCTIONALITY by typing yes + Enter

  Starting AP in a screen
  Stopping any apache web server
  Starting web server in a screen
  Starting Mosquitto in a screen


1. Connect any other device (a smartphone or something) to the WIFI vtrust-flash
   The wpa-password is flashmeifyoucan
   This step is IMPORTANT otherwise the smartconfig will not work!
2. Put your IoT device in autoconfig/smartconfig/pairing mode (LED will blink fast). This is usually done by pressing and holding the primary button of the device
3. Press ENTER to continue

Starting pairing procedure in screen
RTNETLINK answers: File exists
Waiting for the upgraded device to appear
If this does not work have a look at the '*.log'-files in the 'scripts' subfolder!

Okay, so, that didn’t work. Tailing the log files indicates the device is present but rejected connection attempts. Probably a race condition. Let’s try again. Off, On Off On Off On… blinking fast. Here we go.

Thank you, I WILL HAVE FUN Merlin Schumacher, Pina Merkert, Andrijan Moecker and Jan Mahn. Did I mention they came up with this very slick project ? Thank you!
pi@raspberrypi:~/tuya-convert/scripts$ tail -f smarthack-web.log
Target device retrieving the firmware during OTA 😀

Go to your mobile phone and connect to the Tasmota-created network, then go to your phone’s browser and navigate to

Enter your wifi network’s SSID and password and click “Save”. Do this quickly, you have 3 minutes from boot to do it otherwise the device reboots.

Okay, so at this point we have an ESP8266 running the base Tasmota firmware. The Tasmota firmware has different modules which allow it to manage different kinds of devices. There’s a big variety involved though, like dimmers, switches, temperature sensors, etc. So we need to be fairly specific about the kind of device we’re trying to control. I need a Tasmota “template”. I’m hoping something someone else has created will work with this device. Looking at this page one particular candidate stands out : (there’s that “60” again from the Makro SKU…)

The device is on my home network now, so I can configure it using my desktop machine’s browser yay.

Go to the device IP with a browser and click : Configuration -> Configure Other

Paste the following into the “Template” textbox :


The device will reboot.

Once again, yessssssss

So this is great, but now I want to get the device to talk to Home Assistant. To do that start by configuring the device name :

Configure -> Other : Set Friendly Name

Set your MQTT config to point to your HA system.

And then my favourite: go to the console and run the following :

Sleep 0
NTPServer #as an example
Timezone 2

#and then some fun : Set the colour to red :
Color ff00000000
Color 00ff000000
Color 0000ff0000
Color 000000ff00
# all on - it's damn bright
Color ffffffff00

# These allow HA to auto-detect the device - but you'll need to upgrade from the basic to classic firmware first.
SetOption19 1 
SetOption31 1

Home Assistant's Single RGB Light Interface.
Of course the real benefit of all this is integration into Home Assistant’s web interface 🙂 Now I can script the lights as part of a larger network of devices… think continuously adjusting house lighting based on presence and current exterior lighting conditions.
Home Assistant's Group Lighting Interface operating on a group of RGB lights.
Controlling groups of lights.

And that’s about that. Hopefully this helps someone 🙂

Obsessive Home Automation

This is a quick deep dive into home automation with Home Assistant. Home automation is a very wide and complex topic, this post is mostly an overview of what I’ve personally found possible so far.

I bought my house back in 2011. The garden came with an irrigation system, but no valves and no automation. I went looking for valves and a suitable controller… but they were terrible; they had horrible LCD displays that required cryptographic experience to interpret and they cost a ton. The house’s alarm system also sucked. I never figured out how to operate it.

Back before Raspberry Pis if you wanted TCP/IP you needed a Phidget component.

Irritrol. It’s disgusting.

This was 2011 and that meant there were no Raspberry Pis. I automated the garden irrigation system by using Arduino (Atmel Atmega328P) MCUs, controlling relays on a long 100m I2C line around the garden. Using some tricks I managed to get the Arduinos down to 500 Hz and that was reliable enough.

Fortunately, things have changed; 2012 came, the Raspberry Pi 1 hit the market and suddenly these devices could be networked using Ethernet for a fee that wasn’t insane. Then came 2016 and the WiFi-enabled Espressif esp8266 MCU graced us with its incredible price point of ~$4.00 and tiny size. Initially your coding choices were Arduino or Lua but eventually MicroPython took away that world of hurt. MicroPython RAWKS.

Circa 2016, a very untidy ESP8266 borehole controller, temperature/humidity sensor and irrigation valve controller.

Olimex’s take on an esp8266 – this one controls lighting, a pool pump and monitors sand filter input pressure.

At this point I had automated some parts of my home, but all using bespoke code, communicating through an MQTT broker/server. This worked, but it wasn’t user-friendly. Great for cron-based irrigation control, crap for turning on lights during an evening with friends.

The pool pump never turns on at the wrong time.

Then, per chance, I came across Home Assistant. Initially I wanted to use it with a hacked Xiaomi Air Purifier (that’s a story on its own), but as I experimented with it I realise it had the ability to radically improve the usability of my existing home automation. I decided to give it a proper try and started configuring it to talk to my existing devices.

The first Hass experiment was a lonely Raspberry Pi 3B with a super crap 16GB Sandisk MicroSD card. Even in this configuration both Hass and InfluxDB were completely usable.

All my stuff was JSON-MQTT based in that my home-grown devices emitted (and ingested) JSON payloads via the MQTT broker. This was trivial to hand to Hass thanks to Hass’s “value_template” configuration directive:

A sample of Home Assistant’s JSONPath value templating for an electricity sensor that measure utility voltage.

Hass’s web-frontend representation of the compound results of the above sensor.

The sensor above is an EKM power meter, running on an RS422 bridge. A Golang application I wrote, running in a docker container on Hass talks to the meter via the bridge and sends the results to Hass via MQTT as a JSON object. Home Assistant is a collection of docker containers running on a machine (in my case an Arm single board computer).

A neat graph showing power consumption over the last 24 hours.

Hass has basic graphing functionality built-in, but for SUPER COOL FUN I installed the InfluxDB/Chronograf “add-on”.

I had never heard of InfluxDB… damn it’s cool:

Interactive graphs rock. This one shows power usage in watts.

I could sing InfluxDB’s praises for a long time… it’s unbelievably cool… but I’ll leave that for another day.

I neeeed moar GRAPHz…

It’s like eating candy and has similar health issues.

A Soil Moisture Sensor rendered in Grafana from data in InfluxDB.

Did I mention the soil moisture sensors ?

A small subset of soil moisture sensors in the house and garden. Also, gotta love the poop emoji.

For ages I had been looking for a soil moisture sensor solution, but they were all terrible and relatively expensive. I started with the Chirp from Tindie… but they aren’t wireless, they’re bare boards and as such they don’t last.


I then tried an awesome solution by “ProtoArt” on Tindie called the GreenThumb (these are no longer for sale). These are esp8266 based. They worked really well and had some cleverness built in (frequency-resonance sensing of soil constituents), but it was also a bare board and esp8266s aren’t known to be light on battery use.

It’s 2019, enter…

The HHCC (also branded as Xiaomi Flora) soil moisture sensor. This is Bluetooth Low Energy-based. It does moisture, conductivity, light and temperature. It is rain-proof (it has internal seals), relatively affordable, aesthetically unobtrusive and critically the capacitance plates are embedded in the PCB, so should last a long time (compared to the Chirp probe where the sensing plates are traces on the outside of the PCB). Some awesome people have teared down the unit and the protocol is well understood.

I use a FriendlyArm NanoPi Air in a 3D printed case as a bridge/gateway between the sensors and the MQTT broker (and therefore both Hass and InfluxDB).

A NanoPi Air by FriendlyArm. This is a quad-core armhf machine with embedded WiFi, Bluetooth and an onboard eMMC device.

It runs nicely on a Mikrotik Router’s USB port. WiFi and soil moisture sensing.

Spot the soil moisture sensor.

All of these things can (and are) beautifully abstracted out into the Home Assistant web frontend, which runs nicely in both desktop Chrome and my phone’s browser. This got me thinking, maybe I should bring EVERYTHING into the MQTT broker?!? It’d have to be done properly because visions of the Mr Robot scene where a house goes bezerk are a real possibility where everything can be hacked and remotely controlled. Securing a home IOT network is an interesting topic on its own… maybe I’ll write about that next.

Back to apocalyptic home automation: A company called Itead makes a variety of switches which are meant to replace normal wall light switches. Crucially, these devices all use esp8266s inside, which means, with some finger gymnastics, they can be reprogrammed with custom firmware.

Yeah, you have to short R19 to ground during flashing, lots of fun. Also be sure to clear the RF MCU memory to avoid “ghost” switching 😀

The result of abstracting physical lights using MQTT as an API of sorts and Hass as a frontend.

Unfortunately, my house was built in the 80s and Sonoff devices need a neutral line to function. The idea of putting a neutral line in a light switch wall unit in the 80s would have seemed silly because switches only switch loads, they aren’t loads in and of themselves. Rewiring my house to have smart light switches has been a trial.

And some of this required work in the roof…

This was really quite painful.

But, now we have this:

Yes, the air-conditioning is also controlled by Hass. It gives me tremendous pleasure to find a use for a tablet computer from 2013 that has sat gathering dust for years. The light plate behind it used to house 5 switches, all of which have been abstracted and reconfigured in various ways. The tablet itself is stuck on using velcro and is powered by an over-specced PSU in the wall. The tablet is set up to limit the charge of its battery to extend the life of the unit. The interface is a web-app being run on the tablet by WallPanel (an open source app by ThanksMister). The web part of the interface is called HADashboard. This is what the YAML for it looks like :

The layout portion of the HADashboard YAML, which relies on additional definitions.

Some of the definitions used in the dashboard.

This system knows when my phone is on the network, it knows when there’s movement in the house (by virtue of being the alarm system – more on that later) and it can switch pretty much everything. The result is, I don’t have to turn on or turn off lights and when I do want to turn things on an off, I can do it from my phone, anywhere there’s internet connectivity. Once again, this is a complex subject suited to it’s own post.

An example auto-lighting automation. It needs some work, but it’s functional.

I hope you enjoyed this quick dive into obsessive home automation with Home Assistant.